OTTAWA: MONDAY 2^ND JANUARY 2023

Ottawa, in contrast to Toronto’s drabness, colour-wise was different. Ottawa had snow. The snow made the city look fresher straight away as we left the train station to make our way to our venue, the Chateau Laurier. Again, beautiful architecture and huge buildings but unquestionably a totally different feel from the previous city we had stayed at.

Geographically and historical for those readers interested, the area was originally an active transportation corridor for an astounding diversity of Indigenous groups and travellers. In fact, the city’s name is derived from the Algonquin word “Odawa,” meaning “to trade.” European explorers passed through the region beginning in the 1600s, followed by Irish, French, and Scottish settlers, who launched the local timber trade in the early 1800s. Population also increased with the construction of the Rideau Canal (1826-1832) as a military defence and transportation route in case of war with the United States. The settlement was known as Bytown until it was incorporated as the city of Ottawa in 1855. Queen Victoria chose it as the new capital of Canada in 1857. As an aside, did you know we were staying in the same chateau that the Queen Mother herself had stayed in….I would imagine totally different rooms and grandeur of style I would think!

Luggage down, walking boots on, and warmer attire adorned as the temperatures had dropped from +8 degrees in Toronto to -1 in Ottawa. (A little cooler me thinks!) Off we moved. After four hours sitting in the train to get here, we both needed to move.

“Where are we going”? ‘Who knows…let’s find out!  Where have I heard that before?

Ottawa boasts a Pathway of Lights in Winter where thousands of lights brighten Confederation Boulevard, a ceremonial route that circles the heart of Canada’s Capital Region. We walked through some parks where all the trees were illuminated by different coloured lights, enhancing the beauty of the trees. Even though they had lost their leaves due to Winter, their natural beauty was still illuminated! A wonderful opportunity to take what could be seen as “dead” and simply make it alive. You can understand how many, many, many photographs were taken. But it was here though that I lost Marc. Yes, I lost Marc!

Being alone in the dark under these illuminated trees, the sky drifting into the night, he had simply vanished.  Me, isolated, on our first night in a strange city, knowing nobody ….and I could not find him!

What did I do? Calmly calling his name out quietly … then a little louder, then as a ‘mild panic’ set in, but with no answer of his voice was returned to me. Scanning the trees, the lights, moving from place to place in this huge park, calling his name out louder! Eventually standing still on the one spot near an illuminated tree, thinking he might see me…I called again. Now, constantly searching the darkened area for any semblance of my husband…. but he was not there. How do you think I felt?? A little scared…panicky…., yes, all the above. I began to think ‘Okay, do I stay here or go back to the hotel to inform them that their Australian male guest had simply vanished into thin air…taken by the illuminating fairies? Gone! I stayed there for a while under one of the colourfully lit trees (well it was quite a long time in my thoughts anyway- even though it was in real terms only about 5-10 minutes). Then just like he disappeared, he reappeared again! Breathing a little better, he informed me, he had gone into a more shadowy part of the park to take photos and did not hear me calling him. Arm latched firmly in his, fingers very tightly gripped, I was once calmer and more relaxed!

Did I let go of this arm?

Do you think me silly?

Definitely not!

Back to our other adventures!

Each winter, the historic Rideau Canal is converted into the world’s largest skating rink. The Rideau Canal Skateway winds its way through the heart of Canada’s national capital for over a total length of 7.8 km. Unfortunately, on our visit, the ice was still too thin to skate on as they require 10 to 14 consecutive days of temperatures between -10°C and -20°C. The temperatures had not dropped that far for long enough yet! Marc was disappointed. Even the alternative option of riding bicycles along the towpaths beside the canal was not an option since the bicycle hire place was closed for the winter! “Aaargh” Marc thought – don’t these Canadians have any sense of adventure? (My sense of adventure agreed with the General Public! Bikes and ice and Lyndell? )

Today was the official New Year’s Day public holiday, so museums were also closed.

So, what do we do on our one full day in Ottawa? Marc guides me without any explanation on a circumnavigation of the banks of the Ottawa River adjacent to the city. Does this involve walking on lovely, cleared pathways? Hmmm. The near total absence of other walkers accompanying us for the next 14kms would confirm that the answer to the earlier question was, ‘No’. We walked in “no man’s land” where no others were! Why? Because Marc said we could! Most of the paths traversed were still covered with snow that had to varying degrees thawed and refrozen over the previous days making the going either heavy under foot or sheer terrifying in terms of slipperiness. More of the sheer terrifying, I think! Not sure how deep they were, and not wearing my actual snow boots…. I followed Marc! Still, no-one, and most importantly, me…did not slip and fall. A bonus!

I must admit, one advantage of our relative solitude … one of those moments of biological need arose and I was very appreciative of our solitude able to attend to nature in perfect peace. I must add here that there are no public amenities (except in train stations and museums) to be found in either Toronto or Ottawa! When asking the hotel concierge this question, he informed us that you use a restaurant, a café, or a shop. However, where we walked, there were no buildings or shops.…hence my natural dilemma! So, just like my very first ‘wee walk’ with Marc, of 14 years ago, I ventured into the trees (where I could find cover I might add)! I guess you could say I had to place my mark on Ottawa, and I did!

Our walk took us to the falls upstream from the city. The natural falls are now harnessed and used to supply some hydroelectric power to the city but originally would have been a significant obstacle to transporting cargo further upstream than Ottawa. We were the only people there today to witness the strong flow of water through the sluice gates. It was actually quite fascinating that it was a natural waterfall in the middle of this city. But I had to tell Marc to “stay away from the edge”.

Did he listen???

Just passed the water ways, we came to the tower for the ‘Zip-line’ adventure over the river. Marc thought it was surprising that it too was closed for the winter. Lyndell was incredibly happy that it was shut perchance Marc tried to persuade her to try it had it been open. Not a challenge to be taken today!

We crossed over to the Quebec Province side of the river. Definitely not as attractive reflecting the fact that this side had been where the wood processing and wood pulping industries had been historically based. At least, there, we came across the very, very occasional other walker, some with dogs. Made us feel a little less alone. The river here was iced completely across its width, although thinly enough to have been deadly for anyone to dare walk across. No, I did not let him try!

Back on the Ontario Province we wandered through another park and then found our way down to the locks joining the northern end of the Rideau Canal to the Ontario River. These locks allow boats to either ascend or descend a total height of 24m. They were built in 1832 and are still, to this day, working and are hand operated. To my anxiety, Marc in true nature stood on top of one of the lock gates. I am quite positive, there is always a sign above things that say to Marc- climb me….! Somehow, I always see a different sign. To my trepidation, what did he say? “If I fall, oh well, you take me back to Australia in ashes, as that is allowed as hand luggage.” Really!  Can’t you imagine me on the plane or at security when questioned … “All good…that’s just my husband “

By now it was late afternoon and in true Marc-organised explorations, we had had no sustenance or liquid replenishment since our coffee and muffin at breakfast. Time to check out the eateries of Bytown. Quite a collection of shops, taverns, eateries – fancy and not, and even a ‘Men’s Club’. Quite an eclectic area of Ottawa. Hot chocolate, banana loaf and then a LARGE shared bowl of ramen noodles, we were replete and ready to return to our hotel – plus, the air was chilling down towards 0 deg.

Only 23000+ steps and 16+ kms …just a bit of a ‘short day for Marc.

Quebec City Tomorrow!