Ljubljana and Lake Bled January 3

Have I told you how much I like steps??
Have I told you how much I like walking up and down steps?
Have I told you how much I like walking withy husband?
No????
Are you sure????

Let me begin with today!!!

Because we had gone to bed early, (and it was wonderful not hearing bells toll every 15 minutes of each hour right through the night…this is what we have been hearing for quite a while now and Celje was probably the worse)…we awoke early so took advantage of an early breakfast. The weather appeared to be ok re: going to lake bled, but this time I was armed with thermals and all the warm gear…..
First mistake!!
Big mistake !!
I was sooooooooo hot. The temperature had changed from the previous day and it reached a whole 8 degrees and we were both feeling the hot change.

After an hours drive to lake bled from Ljubljana (looking at the most spectacular scenery of snow capped mountains arising from the relatively flat plains and which appeared to visualise in front of you amidst the sun and and sky…from nowhere….absolutely breathtaking) we arrived and took further advantage of the calm lake conditions by catching a small boat to the small island called Blejskega otoka.

(I must mention here that the two staples and the half bandaid from Rome…a month ago, are still holding the GPS together…yes it is still working!! )

In the boat I had to dispense of two layers of attire as I was perspiring rather heavily……not a good sign early in the morning. (I know that home and surrounding areas are having heatwaves,..but I was having my own heatwave of high temperatures believe me – not helped by missing the occasional menopause tablet).
At the island, we climbed up 90 stairs of the bell tower to view the alpine landscape and the restored working mechanism of the large pendulum clock. Nothing overly impressive except the clock worked using old fashioned mechanical mechanisms!! We ventured into the church where they had a wishing bell to ring and of course I had to ring it…..I mean it was there!! The saying goes that if we ring the bell, we commend ourselves to the mother of God in the hopes that our wishes will be fulfilled. Of course I had to ring it. However the island was tiny and we were back on the boat in half hour, returning to the main land of Bled.

We started our circular ambulation of the lake …which was approximately 6.6 kms if you walked straight around,,,.but of course we diverted into various other aspects. Funny that !!

The first diversion was a castle….and yes, guess where it was….just like other castles perched on top of the large dolomite rock on top of the hill.
This time the steps up to the castle were switch backed but they were straight up switch back…even the Czech sporting team which arrived to view the castle were breathing extremely heavy when they arrived at the top. At the stairs there was another path up into the castle over the moat and, yes, it was straight up,,,probably about 45 degrees in angle.
Steps, steps and more steps.
Have I told you how much I like steps.???

Lonely planet label the steps as a tortuous path straight up from the town…does that give you any indication as to what we did???

But it was worth the trek. This is a medieval castle built on a precipice above the city of Bled overlooking Lake Bled. It is perched atop a steep cliff more than 100m above the lake and I guess it is, as a medieval fortress should be, with towers, ramparts, moats and a terrace offering magnificent views. The locals state that it is the oldest Slovenian castle and currently one of the most visited tourist attractions in Slovenia. It was not too crowded today though which was great. Lots of space to move. The castle was built on two levels and dates back to the early 11th century, the first written documents about the castle were found in 1011. Apparently most of what stands here now is from the 16th century. For 800 years, it was the seat of the Bishops of Brixen….and relates to the Hapsburg empire in Austria. The castle was definitely old and left relatively unmarked.
Interestingly when we drove into the town, there were signs everywhere indicating lake bled celebrations from 1004-2014. (Boy -Australia is so young.)

The castle also houses a museum collection that traces the lake’s history from stone-age times to the development of Bled as a resort. We found all that quite interesting as we walked around and up and down many sets of steps and spiral staircases!!! So many steps!!!
Have I mentioned how much I enjoy walking steps and spiral staircases??
It was a great place to visit and we spent many hours in this castle.

The oldest part of the castle is the Romanesque tower but in the Middle Ages more towers were built and the fortifications were improved. The buildings are arranged around two courtyards, which are connected with a main staircase. There is a chapel on the upper courtyard, which was built in the 16th century. The castle also has a drawbridge over a moat.
Marc experienced walking this twice.
(Why????…..On the way down from the castle, we went to take a photo of these amazing steps down the hill below the castle….and realised that he had left the big camera in the amenities back up in the castle. He ran all the way back…which was straight up and not in the lowest toilets in the castle but further up in the section rising from the lower yards to the upper terrace…..hoping that it was still there. I ran slowly to the entrance gate…I just could not do it as a straight run..it was so steep. Luckily the camera was still there but Marc was a little sore in the knees after the run up!!! )

Ps: I must also add here this is the second time Marc has left a camera in a castle…the first time was in Edinburgh castle on our honeymoon…..and yes, again the fates smiled on him and the camera was still there when he returned.

Lake Bled, apparently ranks among the most beautiful alpine resorts, renowned for its mild, healing climate and thermal lake water. I must mention here that in our travels, we have noticed that many places in Europe advertise ” wellness centres”… many with hot springs. Bled was the same advertising thermal waters for health…and as a retreat
However, I must also mention that the views of the lake and the reflections in the water of the castle and the island and church bells was alone worth coming to bled for. These are quite spectacular and we took many photos as we wound our walking way around the lake. Sorting out which will be the best photograph will be hard as we took so many of these views.
It was still so hot and my thermals were not very obliging….such a contrast to yesterday believe me!

And yes ‘we wound our weary feet’ awound..and awound..’the walking way!!!
By the time we got to the end of the journey, it was close to 3:30 and the sky was beginning to lose its sunshine.
It will be so strange when we return home and not have the sun set til 8pm.

Arrival back in Ljubljana were decided to have dinner at the same place from the previous night -a great Idea, but did we take the car…not us!! We walked. We were told it was a 30 minutes walk in from the hotel and 2.5 kms later we ventured into our restaurant. However, it took us 40 minutes back to the hotel due to overfull stomachs and alcohol……
By this time….my feet and ankles were extremely sore. Well…add it together…..6.6 kms around the lake, PLUS straight up the many many many steps and steep incline of the castle, all the spiral staircases and steps within the castle, back down again, PLUS 2.5 kms in and 2.5 kms out of town…I was stuffed!!! Well and truly stuffed. Have I told you how much I enjoy walking???

Saturday January 4 :
After walking again into town and then through the huge Saturday markets, today we visited the Ljubljana castle…I know another castle…but this was a little different.
We walked into town covered in wet weather gear as it looked ominous There was a cable (funicular) car to take you up to the castle but did we take it…no, not us…we walked …again straight up!!!
The rain added to the journey.

This castle was different (we found after our last visit to Europe you can see too many churches but castles are different – each has their differences due to their different histories as well as the landscape itself dictating what form it takes)
Ljubljana Castle is the city’s most prominent sight, offering some of the most beautiful views of Ljubljana. The castle premises house several museum exhibitions and presentations, such as Slovenian History, The Prison and Virtual Castle, among others. We visited it all, including the virtual castle which took us on a time travel of the ‘eras’ of the castle. Its unique location has from ancient times enabled it to serve as a safe refuge and a strategic point or a residence. With its dominant position the castle also became a symbol of the city. However through the centuries, it has met with various fates and its function has frequently changed. In 1335 the Habsburgs took over the area of today`s Slovenia, they demolished the original fortress which stood on the existing hill, and in the second half of the 15th century started building a new one that we visited today. At first it consisted of only walls, towers and wooden barracks and its main purpose was to defend against Turkish invasions, which were the most frequent in the 15th and 16th century. In the 17th and 18th century the castle had the function of a military hospital and arsenal. After the French (Napoleon ) had left, the Habsburgs (Austria ) used the castle for gaols. The gaol period lasted until the end of the Second World War, when first Italians and then Germans took over the management of the castle.In the 70s the renovation began and today the castle is a popular tourist destination .

To us it did not look like an old castle like those that we have previously walked through, but a renovated castle tourist site. It still was interesting and we spent a few hours there, but not in the same calibre of what we have previously seen. However, we learnt a lot about the country itself , and the changes of rulers and borders over the centuries from Italy, Austria and Slovakia…..this was probably the most fascinating part of today including its involvement as part of Austria in the 1st war world, the transition after the First World War to being part of Yugoslavia, it’s occupation by the axis powers during WW2 and then after the world, a period of relative social prosperity under Tito until his death. Slovenia was the first ex-eastern-bloc nation to enter the Euro zone – sadly with some significant loss of economic prosperity.

Oh yes we walked down.
Oh yes we walked back home to the hotel…
To AHotel!!

I know that it may not sound like a lot to you, particularly for those hikers, but we have been walking now for quite a few days..of sightseeing, climbing many stairs straight up and not to mention straight up many spiral staircases and steep thoroughfares…through forests to the castle ,….( like my little forest stroll story from Celje)..and today was the climax of it all.
By the time I took my boots off today there were blisters, ridges from split heels and red blotches on my legs up to my knees from whatever was rubbing against my skin!! I even took photos !!!
I know you can say “ooh” now!!
Even Marc said he was tired and his feet are now sore.
So to end the stay in Slovenia we have spent a leisurely time in our room writing and catching up with our photos.
Marc has started on trying to learn some Greek. Slovenia is easier for the English speaking tourist than both Italy and Austria with most signs having English subtitles and most people speaking quite adequate English.

Ah, at least we bought today some ‘medicine’ for sore feet – Blueberry Liquor. For medicinal purposes only though …

And yes, I am resting my tired legs and sore feet.
No more steps today.

Ps: (No Laura…I am not getting a stepping machine when home!!!)

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