Day two ROME, 10 Decembre
This morning we both woke earlier than we should have but ended up sleeping again..to be woken by the alarm at 7 am. A small breakfast and a chat with the owner again we headed down to the colosseum. The morning was a trifle chilly and we were both thankful for the coats we had on. Yes I had my new coat!!!!
The morning was crisp and cool and we were met by a lovely Italian guide to show us the three levels of the colosseum. Unfortunately not long after we had arrived I felt unwell, clammy and trembly and spent the morning close to the toilet in the colosseum. I think that Marc had a much better deal than me as he went on the tour which took us to all three levels..the 1st and second tier and the underground section. I managed to make it for most of the first section and the underground section but when it came to the last section of the high part, I stayed within the boundaries of four walls of lavatory. I was not at all well.
Probably the dried fruit we had consumed yesterday ,…but not sure as we had also not bought our alcohol wipes with us as we normally do on trips so could have been anything from yesterday. It was good that I had been here before so knew what the place looked like otherwise there would have been a disappointed young ..well actually old woman …this morning by the way I felt…not being able to see and head about the colosseum.
Marc took photos for me anyway…and we went in our way to Palatino hill which had not been before, meandering through the ruins and the making our way to the roman forum ruins. Of course there were a number of toilet stops through out, but by the time we made our way through and headed out to st clementine church …I was feeling a lot better. I was wanting to lose weight…but I do not think that quickly !!! Much better slowly…
After my mornings fiasco and started to feel a little better, but still feeling washed out we had lunch at a small local trattoria …soup and lasagne with meat…but we shared!! The meals are huge. A lovely little place. Marc ordered in Italian ……he is speaking it much more than me, but I can hear and understand it quicker …so we compliment each other.
After lunch 3pm…. We headed to St clementine…..this is a church which is a church built on three levels….that is….the modern level…church…on top of the medieval church top of the roman church foundations….an amazing place. It was definitely worth the five euros to enter in.The Basilica of Saint Clement (Basilica di San Clemente al Laterano) is a Roman Catholic minor basilica dedicated to Pope Clement I located in Rome, Italy. Archaeologically speaking, the structure is a three-tiered complex of buildings: (1) the present basilica built just before the year 1100 during the height of the Middle Ages; (2) beneath the present basilica is a 4th-century basilica that had been converted out of the home of a Roman nobleman, part of which had in the 1st century briefly served as an early church, and the basement of which had in the 2nd century briefly served as a mithraeum; (3) the home of the Roman nobleman had been built on the foundations of a republican era building that had been destroyed in the Great Fire of 64 AD.The lowest levels of the present basilica contain remnants of the foundations of the possibly republican era building.About a hundred years later (c. 200), the central room of the domus was remodelled for use as part of a mithraeum, that is, as part of a sanctuary of the cult of Mithras.At some time in the 4th century, the lower level of the industrial building was filled in with dirt and rubble and its second floor remodeled. An apse was built out over part of the domus, whose lowest floor, with the Mithraeum, was also filled in. This “first basilica” is known to have existed in 392, when St. Jerome wrote of the church dedicated to St. Clement.Restorations were undertaken in the 9th century. Interestingly Irish Dominicans have been the caretakers of San Clemente since 1667, when England outlawed the Irish Catholic Church and expelled the entire clergy.
So, we wound our way down and down and around right to the bottom story. What was interesting is that when we went down there was very little lighting, and so I had to hold Marc’s hand very tightly…as I felt extremely claustrophobic surrounded by the dark, engulfed in auras lingering since roman and medieval times. We could hear the water rushing beneath our feet in an subterranean stream…..and around us and it was an amazing experience, we found our way into one room and did not go any further as it was pitch black and I kept having this illusion we were about to step off into an unknown abyss…..which it felt like. Once the lights came on and we went back along the same route, it had a completely different feel to it. I was glad then we did it the first time unlit.!!!
We then started to make our way to the Roman baths but decided that we had had enough and needed to stop.
Speaking of Rome….I have found today that the crossings at lights and pedestrians are only for the brave,,,,you step out at your own risk, the cars do not have lanes, they go through red lights and they crash straight onto pedestrians……an amazing and terrifying experience all rolled into one breathless ball of anxiety…wondering if you were going to be hit! Marc tried the New York venture of stepping out…no it did not work – they just tried to run you over!! Pedestrians crossings are lines painted in the road, they are there really for decoration.
The other thing about Rome is the cigarette smoke….women smokers especially. I can now understand why they are all so thin…the majority of those we saw yesterday and today smoked ..they smoke so they do not eat. It was hard not to go anywhere and not get cigarette smoke blow at you…not rudely…just part of their normal daily routine,
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The other aspect is the men In groups. A number of groups of men everywhere..congregating chatting, socialising ….obviously they do not have a lot to do. There are hawkers there who try to get you to buy their souvenirs and you have to be careful you do not let them put their flower or whatever into your hand because then you are expected to buy it. We have learnt very quickly….to say non grazie, non grazie as they come towards you….quite a firm but friendly voice. This reminded me of Paris as they were similar then.
Tonight is a quiet night as we are both tired and need a break from sight seeing…Tomorrow we take the car and head out of Rome – but that will be another story …
Ooh that will be fun trying to negotiate the roads out of Rome …I am so glad that Marc is driving!!!!